Cartier Jadeite Pendant Necklace, ca. 1920
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GUEST:
My very favorite aunt gave this to me. She wore it every day. She gave it to me in about 2007. Growing up, I'd heard that her married lover gave it to her. And so, my mother absolutely hated the piece. Upon her death, I read her diary, and it stated that she found this piece at a jewelry store and went to the bank, asked for a loan, said, "What will you loan me? I have no assets, but I have an honest face." And the bank officer loaned her $250. The necklace cost her, I believe, $257. So she did buy it herself. This would be in, I believe, March of 1957.
APPRAISER:
You have a, a document next to it.
GUEST:
Yes.
APPRAISER:
Would you mind describing that for me, please?
GUEST:
Um, I also found amongst her belongings an appraisal that was from 1977 that lists out the necklace as being appraised, at that time, at $15,000.
APPRAISER:
Okay. And you mentioned it's Cartier.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
And how did you come to that conclusion?
GUEST:
Cartier is stamped on one of the clasps.
APPRAISER:
Mm-hmm.
GUEST:
And there's a Cartier number.
APPRAISER:
Mm-hmm.
GUEST:
Um, we contacted Cartier, and they said that they can't do anything unless you're the original owner and have the receipt.
APPRAISER:
Mm-hmm. Your neckline was very popular among the, the appraisers today.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
And, and two groups, the Asian table-- and I'm an Asian appraiser-- and the jewelry table.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm, mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
So there was a slight conflict, but thankfully, I won over. (laughs) I think it's, uh, important an Asian specialist talks about this. Because our table was very, very excited at the quality of the jadeite. The piece itself was likely made during the Art Deco period, circa 1920.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
And you're quite right, it is by Cartier.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
And one of the indications of Cartier is the quality of materials used. So it's likely that the jadeite pendant is earlier than 1920, 1925. The jadeite is certainly from Burma.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
So it's likely with proximity to Burma it was carved-- in Burma or, or China.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
The tourmaline may be earlier, as well. But it's, it's my assumption that the tourmaline, the jadeite pendant, and likely the jade beads are all 19th century.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
So traditionally, seed pearls were made for Chinese court pendants, with tourmaline or amethyst and very good-quality jadeite. So it being signed Cartier, it having a serial number, and it possessing very fine materials would lead me to believe it is by Cartier. Additionally, the jadeite is almost certainly untreated. So it's not been impregnated with polymers or colors or dyes.
GUEST:
Hm. Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
In the appraisal, it's mentioned "Imperial green jade." That's a, a title attributed to, to what we now call apple jade, or apple green jade. The pendant itself does have some white inclusions. There are a few white highlights.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
And that does diminish the value.
GUEST:
Mm-hmm.
APPRAISER:
So the tourmaline is, is wonderful quality, likely platinum set with diamonds. There's a consensus that in a retail setting, it would be $50,000.
GUEST:
Really. Amazing.
APPRAISER:
For an insurance value, $75,000.
GUEST:
Speechless, just speechless!
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